Bali: An Indonesian Sanctuary
My parents used to take me and my siblings to Bali once a year when we were kids. Only a 40 minute plane ride from where I grew up in Surabaya, Bali is the birthplace of many childhood memories and life lessons. Bali was where I learned that seawater is salty - an innocent lesson. That same salty water is also where I learned of the ramifications of political turmoil - an innocence-robbing lesson.
My family took refuge on the rocky Sanur waters of Bali for 2 weeks during the May 1998 riots of Indonesia. We lived on a boat, grateful for our good fortune, but worried for our home. My time on the boat caused me to associate Bali with what would be stereotypical of a foreigner - picturesque beaches that belong on a postcard.
However, Bali, as I would later come to appreciate, is so much more than its clear waters and idyllic beaches. Being in Bali means you’re always somewhere between a rainforest, a neighborhood with deep cultural roots, and seaside cliffs. Bali has some of the most diverse ecosystems and communities on Earth. Sacred waterfalls, rice fields, ancient temples carved into a rock cliff make Bali a cultural and archeological marvel. It is no surprise that grand resorts and villas have and continue to emerge annually offering unique experiences to eager tourists. Like many island communities, tourism now makes up a majority of Bali’s economy. Even the monkeys have staked their claim.
In the Ubud forest I remember being surrounded by disgruntled monkeys who would outsmart tourists, stealing their wallets, food, and other belongings.
It’s not that much different now from when I was a kid. Except there’s been an influx of expats, surfers, and digital nomads living in areas in increasingly “trendy” areas like Canggu and Seminyak. Healthy cafés are swarmed by foreign freelancers and beach clubs like Potato Head, Finn’s, and Atlas cater to Westerners looking to party deep into the night.
Brief History
Bali’s lifestyle is a contrast to other Indonesian metropolitan areas due to the diverse population. Hinduism shapes the architecture and culture whereas the majority of Indonesia is Muslim.
Revisiting Bali as an adult made me question how its culture and history shape Bali today. It’s easy to see why they call Bali a surfer’s paradise, but why do locals call Bali land of the Gods? Probably, because it is.
Hindu temples are on every corner, the smell of incense linger in the air, and ceremonial practices like placing colorful offerings on every doorway are all signature attributes of Bali. The old and new pull at each other, and the tension that results create an atmosphere that is uniquely special and uniquely Bali.
A refuge to 16th century Hindu nobles, artists, and other intellectuals when Islam conquered Java, Bali remains a refuge today - both to locals and foreigners alike. Balinese people continue to celebrate their roots through daily Hindu ceremonies, traditional dances, gamelan (Indonesian orchestra), and other artistic pursuits. Foriegn travels continue to seek solace in spirituality, beauty, and affordability. It’s a dynamic that some would argue to be unsustainable, or even wrong, but we must face that it exists.
Should you travel to Bali, be sure to soak up all the parts of it that are special. Yes, there are beaches and parties. But there is also food, culture, history, and people. To disregard or disrespect any of these would be a mistake.
Travel Tips
Traffic: Plan more time than what Google Maps computes
Transport: Motorbikes/scooters are the most efficient for solo or 2 travelers, but Bali’s narrow streets can be a challenge. Hiring a driver with their car is the most convenient for groups
Climate: Bali is hot, humid, and rainy (November - March). Dress appropriately